What a spectacular race! I was hesitant to leave home, I was enjoying summertime bliss, however if I had not ventured to the far north I would have missed one of the greatest adventures of my life! I hit a bit of luck on the flight out. They had cancelled a flight the night before to Anchorage and were asking people to give up their seat for a $400 voucher. I jumped on the deal and not only did I get the voucher, but I rode first class to boot! I arriving 4 hours earlier than expected because they routed me through Seattle to Juneau. WOW, what a lucky break! When I arrived in Alaska I had to wait for the rental car but was happy to receive a SUBARU LEGACY WITH BUMB WARMERS! Lucky me now I knew I would be warm at night. I went from 100 degree Utah to 50-60 degree Alaska....I drove around the historic city of Junea and was freaked out by how narrow and steep the streets were! SCARY to drive down them....After orienting myself I found the LDS church, and readied myself for my first night's sleep in Alaska! I realized at 11pm that this was the land of the all night sun! I couldn't go to sleep until midnight, and then it was light and I was up at 3am. During the night I heard noises in the stream where I was parked by....SCARY! I thought for sure it was a bear....So not a very restful night! I was up with the light and tried to force myself back to sleep. Not being very successful I got up and decided to take a look at the Mendenhall Glacier. I was the first one there and when I first saw the glacier it took my breath away it was so massive and beautiful! I just cried....I had never seen a glacier before! While I was there I walked around the visitors center and discovered a stream where chinook salmon were in abundance! This stream provided bear with easy food...as I witnessed Sunday morning! A bear jumped into the stream scaring me to death and caught a salmon with his teeth. I heard him crunching the bones while he hid in the bushes to eat. After eating the first salmon, he dove into the stream again and caught a 2nd! After crunching that salmon down he dove in one last time down stream for his 3rd salmon catch! I witnessed a most spectacular site! Anyway after viewing the glacier and talking to the forest ranger, I went into the visitors center to touch 250 million year old glacier ice! WOW!
The Juneau visitors center opted me with several choices. I decided to do indoors since it was raining! I went to the State Capitol Building, (an old high school converted into the state capitol) complete along Sarah Palin's picture hanging as a past governor. The guide talked about the history of Juneau and Alaska through pictures of the states predominant citizens. After listening to an organ recital that was played on an old Kimball pipe organ in the SOB (State Office Building), and watching parents, grandparents and children dancing around the alcove enjoying lunch and only taste of real music, I discovered the State Museum. A hat display was going on. The Tlingits (native american indian tribe) had every unique hats on display. Most looked liked woven tall chimneys. From the early age of the Tlingits, to the modern day hat was displayed. An old whaling bucket was unique as well as the eagle's nest and taxidermy of their native animals. The next stop the oldest Russian Orthodox church in Alaska. Very unique with beautiful lithographs of Christ. Saints pictures abound however walking through the pastor? fathers? house getting to the church was and adventure!
I had my usual pre-marathon aches and pains throughout the whole day. I was worried about the race! I picked up my marathon packet at 4, then decided to eat the last supper! I always worry about what to eat the day before the marathon. I just had my standard rice cakes and protein bars. The night before I also drank 6 coconut waters! I'm addicted to coconut water!
I found Douglas Island and Savviko park. I camped in the harbor overlooking the boats docked and cruise ships coming up the channel. This was a great place to sleep. In the evening the lights would come on inside the boats and it looked like a misty October (lighted pumpkin) harbor scene! BEAUTIFUL!
The next morning race day I was up to see Larry Macon and boys start at 5AM, a few more started at 6AM, but since I wanted to qualify for an award I waited until 7am. I dressed in regular running shorts, team BOM shirt, hat and running gear. I started slow, always I start slow. Everything checked out, no shin splints, achilles aches, but I still took it slow. Was the last 3 runners in the race. It was so beautiful I didn't want to run fast. I wanted to savor the beauty! The course was hilly, but I enjoyed it. It was out and back so I decided to get acquainted with the course before doing anything too stupid! I played the alphabet game going out, and then at 13.1 after running about 2:05, I decided I was being way to lazy. I enjoyed watching the eagles and waterfalls but knew I would be too bored if I didn't run faster. I played a game in my head. I thought I wonder if I can make a 1:50 on the way back? I took the first 10K at 50 minutes, the next 5K at 25 while passing many people. I hit the half marathoners and kept pace with an 8 minute runner and finished in 3:52 being the 1st place Masters Champion......EXCITING! I was able to hit a big negative split by 13 minutes! I was so excited especially seeing the sister missionaries at the end. I showed them Team BOM and they were so excited and then brought the INEW NVESTIGATOR RACE DIRECTOR to see my shirt and meet me. The elders were there as well helping with the lunch which was incredible! FRESH BAKED ALASKAN SALMON! The fix it up like a hamburger, they also had hamburgers, hotdogs, and a ton of snacks. WHAT A MEAL...This meal tied with the Cranberry Islands lobster bake at the end of the 50K last summer. I was excited to see that the Bishop, R.S. President, YW President and many other ward members ran the half marathon. A boy from Brigham City actually won the half marathon. What an exciting day for the missionaries and ward members. I met a friend afterward who ran the half marathon. Her name was Annette from Wisconsin. She was a previous nun now occupational therapist. She let me shower in her hotel, then we went and hiked the falls adjacent to Mendenhall Glacier, toured historic Juneau and attended a mass at her Catholic church. Later we went to Bullwinkles for pizza with the race director and friends.
The next morning I woke up early and went to Mendenhall Glacier again for a walk. That's when I discovered the bear! I hurried and changed into my sunday clothes picked Annette up and attended 3 hours of the Juneau 3rd ward....The sister missionaries were there and were so cute to Annette....Annette said our church service reminded her of the old Catholic ways. INTERESTING! Annette was very good about attending the block meetings and everyone was so cordial to her. A great experience! I then took her around the north area of Junea to the END of the road literally. We found a Catholic retreat called St. Therese....On the island was a catholic church, so we attended mass there instead of back in town. It was a very nice service. The island where the church was built on was GORGEOUS! Meditative and serene looking over the pacific ocean while contemplating the beauty of the world Heavenly Father has created for us to enjoy. We also toured the cities arboretum, beautiful plants abound at this free site. I then took Annette to shop at the cruise shops by the port in Junea before catching her flight out. I dropped her off since I don't shop on sunday. I then took her back to her car, she doesn't like to drive, and helped her find her way to the airport. What a nice woman, I'm glad I had the chance to meet her and share the gospel with her. We had some lively religious conversations. It was great to meet a woman who knew her scriptures and had a love for Christ and Heavenly Father. One interesting statement was made at church by the Elders quorum president....I was complaining about the rain, commenting I wish it would stop raining so we could do something outside. He turned around and said,"if you wait for it to stop raining in Juneau to do something, you'll never get anything done"! I took his advice and stopped complaining and had the best adventure of my life.
The next 4 days, through rain and sunshine I hiked every trail I could find. I discovered, skunk cabbage, moss, several species of mushroom, rain forest trees with roots that looked like caves, eagles, dropped feathers, blue jays, porcupine, otters, sea lions, alaskan jade, cabins, bear scat filled with salmon berries YUMMY!, waterfalls, mining caverns, gold, crystal clear rivers, capturing glacial ice and putting it in a walmart sack to save it and take home, vistas, never setting sun, clouds, rain and I enjoyed and soaked it all in! The trails I hiked East and West Glacier, Perserverance, Mt. Roberts, Cowie Creek, and Cowie Creek Meadow, Treadmill mine, and tried Herbert and Windfall but was kicked off by search and rescue workers trying to locate a body of a man who overdosed. Sad story! I also toured the fish hatchery, fun and informative, many park and recreation sites, while camping all the while at the harborin Savvok park on Douglas Island. Here is a fun letter I wrote the family....
Family and Friends,
With a heart full of mixed emotions I am leaving this beautiful land Alaska! 20 years younger I could have taken on this wilderness! These people are as tough as I. They don't use umbrellas, they wear chore boots and hats everywhere. They are always in survival mode, but they have to be this is a rough country. The last two days not much correspondence to you as I was hiking my literal guts out. I have dined on Salmon berries, salmon and coconut water, seen enough bear to consider them dogs, enjoyed the jumping of salmon trying to out swim the sea lion and hungry black bear, wiped my bottom on skunk cabbage, gathered black jade in jet ebony lily ponds that looked as if the valdez oil spill was a few miles away, soared with the eagles while gathering their plumage, made new friends....A baby porcupine this morning! He stopped and just stared at me, SO CUTE! My camera only got one shot of him since my battery was dead! Viewed an incredible glacier everyday while gathering sub zero glacial ice off the banks of Mendenhall lake, hiked Cowie Creek Meadow and River trail, East and West Glacier Trail, Perservence, Red Mine, Gold Run, Mendenhall Lake, Mt. Roberts and tried to do Herbert Glacier and Windfall Lake....A young man committed suicide on that trail and while I was hiking was kicked off by search and rescue dogs, helicopters etc. His name was Steve. He was a head nurse that drove a red toyota. I viewed his car, the contents in the car and his girl friend at the end of that hike! VERY SAD! Took me a few days to get over that! They found the body in the run off from Herbert....ANYWAY, next time I'm here, I will take the ice cave hike on West Glacier. Needed Crampons to do that, also Lemon Creek Trail looks interesting! 6 miles each way, need to take a friend on that one. Also Mt. Junea peak coming back on Granite trail through perserverence....I am not afraid of bears seen scat full of berries on all the hikes I took. I also embraced the Tlingit traditions. Very rich in native american history. The totem pole and masks are incredibly important here. As well as their hats. They are having a rough time in Juneau. Alcoholism and gambling are getting the young. I can't tell you about the restaurants because I just snacked the whole time. They have a Fred Meyer, Walmart, Costco and Safeway in the Valley. Also a McDonald's for free wi fi...Their shopping mall has a few shops but nothing much. The downtown area that the cruise ships own do all the business. The Red Dog Saloon, Wyatt Earps pistol still resides there looks good to stop and eat and also bullwinkles Pizza. The twisted Salmon also looked interesting. Rainbow Grocery was the only health food store, they were nice people even though they were all visibly gay. Most important was the Frozen Yogurt store....The girls quickly became my friend, since it has been too cold to sale any yogurt to the locals....The tram going to Mt. Roberts was fun especially meeting my Klinget Friend Steve selling Caribou leave ointment. I bought two cans of it. I can't believe it, it took all my pains away for hours. Best yet however it smells like Marijuana! YIKES! I asked him what was in it and he said it was a secret! Oh well I'm not smoking it! IT WORKS! I slept in my bum warming subaru outback in North Douglas harbor, Savvaka Park next to a porta potty overlooking the harbor....BEAUTIFUL and fun hearing the rain hit the top of the roof and windows while cuddled inside grandma Holley's wool blanket! It still smells like Grandma Holley! What a hotel. I showered in Auke Bay for $2.00. Had to share the shower with fellow male campers but it was a place to shower. AN ADVENTURE for sure! St. THerese shrine was where I caught my first glance at a sea lion. Fun! I could easily count this as my favorite state thus far even with the cool temps and rain. Like a man said in our ward I think he was the Elder's quorum president, If you wait for it to stop raining before you do anything, you won't get anything DONE! So with those words of advice I ran through this week Waking up at 4-5am and to bed 9-10pm, waking after the sun was up and sleeping before the sun went down. I'm worn out, but with many adventures! One fun thing was a used book store in the Valley. Books were 50-1.00 So fun to go through all the old books found a collection for the grandkids. See everyone soon. Love you all,
Susan
